The hurried matters of each day these passed few months seemed to be getting to both of us. Its close to 4am as we sit and sip in silence, wooden poetry with a misbalance of communicative strumming of strings playing from the restaurants speakers. We sit staring out the window on lightweight curved bar stools watching as snow flakes gently drop on the city streets. A lot has happened in these past few years that I’ve stood next to this Chef. I remember the first time I met him. 21 years old and just freshly moved to Brooklyn, New York. Looking for a job, a friend of mine told me to stop by this establishment, so with resumé in hand I went.. ready to meet for an interview. I was however confronted with a sharp stare over the brim of the Chef’s glasses as he poured two coupes of champagne. While handing me a glass his pensive look uninterrupted, nodding. He told me to be here Monday at 11am. He hardly even glanced at my resumé. 

This is who he is, this is also how he cooks. I have learned so much from this man, no it wasn't easy... he was tough to work with, let alone work for. We disagreed on a lot and really could get at each others necks from time to time.. but as much as we did in equal parts there was always a doubling amount of items we could agree on strongly, together. I realized that I was in many ways so similar to him, which is why I worked well with him. Yet, with our stubbornness this could also be chaotic. I respect him. To this day he has been one of the most exhilarating Chefs I've ever worked for, there was never a boring day trust me. He took risks and was spontaneous, yet having a unwavering view of staying in his comfort lane if you will, especially when it came to cooking food. A lot of the young cooks that come into the industry won’t find this the most exciting place to work.. in many ways I can understand that. Yet, what is missing from todays kitchens are people or kids if you ask me not having, wanting, nor even knowing what a solid foundational training in this field is. This Chef, this restaurant forged mine and I will be forever grateful to him and all the colleagues there that pushed me. 

It drives me nuts that my millennial generation can’t just stick to something and come through. As positive as it all is, the newest food trend, the coolest place to dine or work at, that doughnut, this broth, those bagels, that cocktail. Everything comes and goes so quickly. Now try and find me a cook that can make a perfectly smooth cucumber and dill sauce that will stay vibrant green for the duration of a dinner service. No you don't get to use acid nor additives. 

I don’t want to sound offish or over confident to any young fresh cooks trying to make it in this field, we know there is a shortage good cooks. But, some of you will need more training and experience to become good cook, if not better cooks and chef.. myself included. So yes, take this advice from me when I say ‘keep your head down’ and ‘don’t get cocky’. Find respect for whom you work for and they will show you true pride in cooking. Once that has been established you will have a better foundation and you can start curating your own palate and view of food, if not kitchen life itself. For me that was this fervid and igneous Chef, the one sitting next to me murmuring along to Lou Reed sipping Louis Roederer both of us pretending we are on a warm tropical island. 

Danke

Rushing through the villages of Manhattan.. tea in one hand and phone in the other, wiping off snowflakes on my scarf which does it no good, skimming over the review that was just posted online. A great review for that matter, and will no doubt be on the lips of many cooks through the city today. Rounding the corner onto Bedford ave, I find the door ’86’.

The restaurant is dimly lit, but pushing past the heavy curtains in the main doorway there is are a bustle of noises. Meeting are being held, phone lines buzzing constantly, and pictures being posted onto social media. There is the chef, standing next to the bar with and exhausted smile saying ‘thanks’ to whomever is at the other end of the call. One hand asserted on her hip, an instant tell tale of who is in control here, yet with a poised comfort. For almost all of the times that I have entered a new kitchen it is as if I have entered someone else’s home as if without invitation. Its strange and could make any unseasoned cook quite uncomfortable. But, the people who work in these kitchens have made it there home. They have put in many hours of often grueling labor in these past months or years and even just today. Each cook and chef have had their ups and downs in this kitchen .. good days and bad, professional or personal. Anyone entering is instantly scrutinized almost as a defense mechanism because they are proud and protective of what they do and where they work. Its part of what I like to call, kitchen life.

I change into my chef whites in the bowels of NYC , introducing myself phrasing ‘congrats’ to any cook and porter along the tight alley way as I scurry back toward the stairs. Closely paying attention to where the basic utensils are stocked, dry items and fresh produce is being stored. The kitchen is a blur of new sights, sounds and smells. Pretzels are pulled out of ovens, trout is being scaled, corner! To the right of me white chocolate and cauliflower puree is gently placed in tiny bottles for service. I’m churning cherry ice-cream that we will make into sandwiches wrapped in gold foil, the simplicity of it almost seams effortless yet anyone will knows quite some thought has been put into this. Delicious. Behind. Seaweed powders and array of spices are set up at the pass. You can feel the excitement and the sense of urgency as the clock ticks closer and closer before its go time. Yet there is a wholeness of family pride, especially on a day such as this. We have family meal, a fantastic hamachi collar bone broiled with fish sauces and soy. Everyone gathers around to sip some champagne and say congrats.. some words are said, a hug and a handshake or two. Going over the last details for tonight’s menu and this evening’s guests a welcoming glow of pride and contentment can be felt, before we all scamper off like rats back to our stations ready for another night of service.

As it was said that very morning this team had ‘raised the culinary bar’ even if some of it looked like bar food. To be able to experience something such as this with a group of people who are so passionate about what they do on such day of validation is simply incomparable.

Its quarter to six. My phone vibrates, it notifies me that my uber has arrived as I'm hustling down the cold marble steps of a Brooklyn apartment building. I have a to-do list longer than imaginable, still dark out but spring is in the air and I'm surprisingly in a decent mood for just having had just five hours of sleep. First stop is the produce market, Union Square to be exact. Early morning at the markets always put me in a positive mood rain or shine. Im surrounded by millions of people yet I'm alone in quiet safety with my laptop behind the tinted glass of a Lincoln towncar. As we hit the Manhattan bridge the first slivers of sun bounce off the skyscrapers, that and the street lights make the city out to be dusted in glitter. 

Grabbing a quick coffee from a street vendor, I head straight to the first of the seasons berries and young spring potatoes, both smelling of fresh green dirt. I get a couple kilos of each with some baby leaks and fennel. Heading over to the cheese and honey vendors I pass a fish monger and the sea smells hit like a brick, Im awake. Im reminded of the times my grandmother took me to the market back in Schiedam. Herring. I was and still am obsessed, the way they fillet them in front of you and slap the fatty fish on a slice offresh white tigerbrood with some minced onions. Even getting some of the oozing fat onto my brand new orange soccer jersey, not caring the least. I was a wide eyed child, mesmerized and without a problem could eat two or more fish for breakfast, this I think even surprised my grandmother. Just as she would, I maneuver through the quickly thickening crowd ever so often voicing an ‘excuse me’ as to not make it seem like a personal attack to others as I elbow my way through with all my purchases. I see another chef waving in my direction, chatting as we head over to a stall that sells an amazing arrange of micro greens, I realize that she too looks exhausted but content. Just looking at all the produce and edible flowers can let anyone unclench from the daily kitchen life or more, the city life for just even a moment. Speaking of flowers I may just get some fresh arrangements for the restaurants bay windows facing the Hudson river.. I find a couple huge branches filled with cherry blossoms the aroma is sweet and I think Chef will appreciate them.

Heading into the bowels of the prep kitchen through a trapdoor off the sidewalk I can already hear the kitchen aid running and a mixture of smells coming from the pastry area. Coffee, bread, and passionfruit to be exact. I start to label and organize the produce I've brought in, and pass off the cherry blossoms to the porter who loves arranging the flowers. The smell of fresh baked genoise sponge spills out onto the side walk as I smoke a cigarette and go over todays BEOs. By god that women knows how to bake. Ive learned so much from her and she is my rock on more days then I have fingers and toes to count on. She may not like to hear it, but her humble talents remind me of just that. My grandmother.

To every women working in the kitchen, from the depth of my heart thank you for your élan vital.

The microscopic attention we get in todays day and age about the culinary arts are a huge positive. It has produced a fuller understanding of food, cooking and the environment for one. The execution of service and thought that goes into our loyal customers and potential new ones are ever heightened. We have become more aware then ever of the changes that happen in our industry, the quick technologies that embetter our work and also the experience of our guests.

As you may now know I’ve been in this industry for a while now. At times I am at odds with it, do I want to quit? Have I already quit? Yes, a couple of times so far, but never for too long, it always creeps back up on me. As I have mentioned before this is me, this is what I know and what I truly believe I’m good at doing, cooking. Tiring at times, finding motivation to make food for people whom often don't appreciate it in todays day and age. Knowing how to edit 23 ‘selfies’ in 2 minutes, yet wouldn't nor couldn't for the life of them be able to properly cook an egg.  All the allergies the dietary restrictions, the blatant disrespect for our profession. I find this especially relevant in the United States and feel that this stems from a delusional state of materialistic mindlessness this country has. Its harsh I know. Not wanting to come off as unappreciative about all the attention that the food industry gets yet, there is no fair check and balance approach to eating out at a finer dining level. This I believe has done a lot of damage to the restaurants, its owners, cooks and chefs on a physiological level. We are daily being graded and judged by what we do as a job, this impart pushes the chefs, cooks and in a whole the industry forward because it is always under such scrutiny which is a very positive idea but, where are all these opinions coming from?  Well respected news papers, magazines and online social platforms? As we've seen recently with the way they are ‘rating’ restaurants half of it is all PR stunts orchestrated often by ourselves as restaurants and chefs almost as a last attempt to draw a line in the sand for any misconstrued conceptions of our brands and beliefs…I will admit we bare part of the blame. But, a one michelin star noodle shack in Asia is to fucking far.

So how about the vegan with a ‘foodie’ blog eating, dissecting, judging and rating a restaurant that serves meat on the regular, now you've giving your two cents on the establishment you've dined at and are ripping them a new one because they didn't help you find, or further more make a vegan dish for you that can’t be found anywhere near the menu that was placed in front of you that evening. Listen, I can speak for most chefs we respect your choice to be vegan, vegetarian or other causes for your dietary requirements. Most establishments are ready and able to whip up something delicious and nourishing for you, so that you may also have an enjoyable experience. Do not however expect me to respect you after you shit all over an establishment because you where dissatisfied with a pile of steamed kale from a restaurant thats known to sell all things pork. Take a step back, think before you speak or worse, whine online. I do not walk into a wonderful vegan-gluten free restaurant in Brooklyn ( Sun in Bloom ) or Boston ( True Bistro ) and ask them, nor expect them to make me foie gras with 3 sliced of brioche toast… and then complain about it once they cant fulfill my needs and desires. Its absurd. You may say ‘there aren't many (good) places to eat with these type of food necessities’ I understand this but, we are working on it, we are evolving as cooks, chefs, and restaurants as well ( Jean-George is opening ABC-V soon, Equinox’s vegan tasting in Washington DC requested by Chef Todd Gray’s wife is superb. Chef Carmellinis vegetable forward Little Park, extravagant vegetarian tasting menus at Del Posto, and winners such as Dirt Candy and Avant Garden in NYC to name a few). This is for most of us cooks a newer approach as well. Remember this is our job, it is our lively hood. We are here to nourish you. Body, mind and soul. Most of us went to school and are trained to do this and if not, have been working and learning for many years, please respect that. We don't have a customer desk we have a host stand. We aren't your servants don't treat us as such, we are only of service to you. 

As guests of a restaurant you are not ‘always right’ I personally despise anyone who says that in our industry. Yes I know we are running a business trying to make money… the first thing anyone ever brings up for debate but dining out isn't what it used to be and to say ‘yes’ to every potential customer is beyond me. Strategize, come up with a solid business plan and realize that you need to hone in on what type of client and food you want to work with. Stick with what you believe in, and the goals of the restaurant before it opens or when it first had opened. Establishments such as these are often tried and true, staying open for business years longer then others because there is a shared belief of goals, from the waiter to the cook, and the client. 

Lets have a more open conversation. This is just my quick two cents as well, and often I'm speaking from a disheartened point of view as a cook. Yes I could be wrong, no I don't need a hug. But, next time a thank you for accommodating your needs, other than a unvalidated, anonymous online review to ruin my night would be better appreciated. 

And a glass of wine.