86 Rat Race

Rushing through the villages of Manhattan.. tea in one hand and phone in the other, wiping off snowflakes on my scarf which does it no good, skimming over the review that was just posted online. A great review for that matter, and will no doubt be on the lips of many cooks through the city today. Rounding the corner onto Bedford ave, I find the door ’86’.

The restaurant is dimly lit, but pushing past the heavy curtains in the main doorway there is are a bustle of noises. Meeting are being held, phone lines buzzing constantly, and pictures being posted onto social media. There is the chef, standing next to the bar with and exhausted smile saying ‘thanks’ to whomever is at the other end of the call. One hand asserted on her hip, an instant tell tale of who is in control here, yet with a poised comfort. For almost all of the times that I have entered a new kitchen it is as if I have entered someone else’s home as if without invitation. Its strange and could make any unseasoned cook quite uncomfortable. But, the people who work in these kitchens have made it there home. They have put in many hours of often grueling labor in these past months or years and even just today. Each cook and chef have had their ups and downs in this kitchen .. good days and bad, professional or personal. Anyone entering is instantly scrutinized almost as a defense mechanism because they are proud and protective of what they do and where they work. Its part of what I like to call, kitchen life.

I change into my chef whites in the bowels of NYC , introducing myself phrasing ‘congrats’ to any cook and porter along the tight alley way as I scurry back toward the stairs. Closely paying attention to where the basic utensils are stocked, dry items and fresh produce is being stored. The kitchen is a blur of new sights, sounds and smells. Pretzels are pulled out of ovens, trout is being scaled, corner! To the right of me white chocolate and cauliflower puree is gently placed in tiny bottles for service. I’m churning cherry ice-cream that we will make into sandwiches wrapped in gold foil, the simplicity of it almost seams effortless yet anyone will knows quite some thought has been put into this. Delicious. Behind. Seaweed powders and array of spices are set up at the pass. You can feel the excitement and the sense of urgency as the clock ticks closer and closer before its go time. Yet there is a wholeness of family pride, especially on a day such as this. We have family meal, a fantastic hamachi collar bone broiled with fish sauces and soy. Everyone gathers around to sip some champagne and say congrats.. some words are said, a hug and a handshake or two. Going over the last details for tonight’s menu and this evening’s guests a welcoming glow of pride and contentment can be felt, before we all scamper off like rats back to our stations ready for another night of service.

As it was said that very morning this team had ‘raised the culinary bar’ even if some of it looked like bar food. To be able to experience something such as this with a group of people who are so passionate about what they do on such day of validation is simply incomparable.